In mid August, I spent 3 days in Nunavut’s capital, Iqaluit. After spending more than 3 months in Kuujjuaq, the little hop to Baffin Island was quite was still a change in scenery. Having worked on a few projects there, my experience of the town was limited to Google maps. Imagine my surprise when I saw that unlike in Google maps, the landscape isn’t flat (proof that Google maps, although useful, doesn’t replace the experience of physically being there)…

I had gotten used to living in an inuit community, but Iqaluit is much bigger than in expected. There is traffic in the streets and many many taxis everywhere (Kuujjuaq has one taxi…). Iqaluit has even a few tall buildings. All in all, my perception is much diferent coming from a smaller community than if I was to arrive directly form Montreal or Toronto.

Architecturaly, Iqaluimiuts will build on piles that are driven down to reach the bedrock. This is different than what I am used to seing in Nunavik Quebec where most houses stand on stilts on the ground surface. Reaching for bedrock is more expensive, but more stable, and in Iqaluit hills, a must when your lot isn’t flat. In fact, I’d say that more than 90% of the building lots aren’t flat. This fact has given some interesting architectural gems, but unfortunately, most of the new houses are plain southern ugly bungalows that are lifted several feet above ground.

One pleasant surprise is the landscaping in town. There seems to be an effort to create interesting ans livable public spaces in town. I think that other northern communities should follow the example. When you live in Nunavut, you shouldn’t be afraid to spend some time outside when it’s cold…

As I arrived in town, Steven Harper was just ending his 3 days in the north to state Canada’s presence in the north. In this publicity stunt, he announced the building of a deep sea port near Nanisivik in the northern end of Baffin Island (the same deep sea port that he promised to Iqaluit during the elections). This decision may seem logic as it is near the coveted Northwest Passage, but building navy ports for new warships instead of icebreaker isn’t going to help the people who live up north, Canada’s REAL claim to northern sovereignty.

On a liter note, as in other northern communities, Iqaluit has its share of special people. I guess being in a small and isolated spot, it develops and attracts interesting personages, thus an integral part of the local colour. I would thus like to thank all the local folk of Iqaluit for the warm welcome and I will surely visit again…

Nakurmiik!

I have many pictures on my flickr site www.flickr.com/photos/leogoguen/sets/72157601523521932/